Loading With A Lee Breech Lock Classic Cast Press and Ultimate Rifle 4 Die Set

This post hopefully will answer some questions about the mystery of reloading metallic cases. This will be just a basic tutorial and there are quite a few on the web but this is how I do it and it works.

Currently I have decided to work up a specific target load for my rifle. What I'm doing will create an accurate load that is specific to my rifle. The same load used in your rifle may or may not be as accurate. I am starting with new brass and the first rounds through my rifle will form fit the brass. I'm also starting with the bullet height specific to my rifle chamber. To do this I take an empty non primed case  that can be chambered in my rifle and just barley seat a bullet. If the empty case will not fit in my chamber it will need to be sized using the Lee full sizing die and then go on to seat the bullet. I put this in the chamber and see if the bolt will close. If not I seat the bullet just a bit more until the bolt almost closes. The bullet is seated the rest of the way by pushing the bolt closed. I keep this as my reference and this is what I use to set my bullet seating die. This is called seating the bullet to the rifle lands, which is so when the bullet is chambered it is touching the rifle lands. Since these are new cases I do not have to de-prime them, clean them or size them because these particular cases are ready to go. These cases I'm using are Hornady Match cases and the bullets are Sierra 168gn Match King HPBT. I'm following a procedure more or less on the Sierra web site(Long Range Load Development).

Instructions for the press and a reloading how to as well. For more information on Lee Precision follow this link(Lee Precision)

I recommend drilling holes in a work bench and mounting this press. The press is heavy and well made. I downloaded a template but it is easy enough to make your own. I used bolts lock and fender washers and nuts. I can easily remove the press and put it away if I don't intend to use it for a while. For more information on this press follow this link(Classic Cast press)

After I determined the length of my cartridge and had a model non primed non charged cartridge to measure and compare. I put on my safety glasses and  I primed my new cases. If I were reloading already fired cases I would de-prime, clean and re-size the neck if it were shot from my rifle or else I would use the full sizer included in the die set if the cases were fired from another rifle or out of size.

Case primed and ready to go into a load block to be charged with powder.

The next step is to systematically weigh powder and load each case. I used an electronic scale. Make sure you get one that comes with a weight for calibration. It is important to some how keep track of the case you are charging. The last thing you want to do is double charge a case. But these cases would over flow if double charged. Still you need to concentrate and keep your mind on your job. No distractions.

Empty cases in load block.

Loading powder into cases after being weighed.

My electronic scale.

Here I'm using an RCBS powder trickler to trickle the powder into the pan on the scale. Lee provides a powder dipper that you can use to put the powder in the pan and weigh it. They also provide you recipes where you can use the dipper without a scale for reloading but you are limited to their information. It works I have tried it on other loads but for these I want to be as accurate as possible since I'm working up long range loads.

Primed and loaded cartridges in the load block.

These instructions come with the dies and there is a lot of information on loads they recommend and how to reload using their equipment. Also there is the size of a standard case you could use to generically seat your bullet depth. These are all tested and will work for you. For more information on these dies follow this link(Ultimate Rifle Dies)

Then using my predetermined bullet seating depth I set the bullet seating die and seated my bullets.

Model of my cartridge I made.

Seating die adjusted.

Bullet ready to be seated.

Measure and compare.

Lee Ultimate 4 rifle die set. Comes with shell holder, full sizing die, neck sizing die, adjustable bullet seating die, factory crimping die, powder dipper and instructions. 

Next I crimped all my reloaded shells with the crimping die.

After I sight the rifle in with these loads I will go to a firing range that has at least targets out to 200 yds if not more and work through different powder charges. That will be the topic next time. Until then have fun reloading and shooting.

Shotshell Reloading

Disclaimer:

Reloading is safe if you are safe! Remember you are dealing with gunpowder and primers, Yes Explosives!. Your mind must be focused, unaltered by drugs and alcohol and you must be here reloading not somewhere else thinking about other things. This is important. Have fun Reloading.

  Put on your safety glasses before you start!

There are many tutorials on reloading shotgun shells. This is how I do it. At first it is intimidating mostly because we are flooded with marketing information from companies trying to sell us the latest and greatest machines. If you just take a step back, especially if you are a beginner and start with just a single stage reloading press you will be happy for quite sometime. 

I found a used MEC Jr. and can load both 2 3/4" and 3" shells. It was used but clean and felt solid. In fact this may be the way to go for you. I know for me and what I shoot this is all I need and possibly all I will ever need. With my current set up I can load all the waterfowl loads I need and can really shoot in a day or week or even a month sometimes. It only takes me a few hours to load these. I'm talking about steel or tungsten or heavy shot, etc, etc any non-tox load. For upland and target loads I may use a box in a month, maybe unless it's the dove opener.

I have found that with my setup I need to weigh loads depending on the powder and shot I'm using maybe every 5 loads but my target and upland loads I can usually load a box and then use the scale to check and see if something has changed. 

A good tip is get a small accurate electronic scale with a calibration weight, important! like the one at Ballistic products(Ballistic Products Scale). I learned about this because I buy some of my reloading supplies and books from them. You can learn a lot about reloading just from their site. Don't be afraid to call them or powder manufacturers like Hodgdon or Alliant for your reloading questions. They are extremely friendly and helpful and are shooters like you and I. 

Usually with certain powders nothing changes and with smaller shot nothing changes. The issues arise when I load waterfowl loads that are #2 steel and the magnum powders like longshot and steel but that is due to my setup and equipment. There are better presses and if that is the route you wish to go you can spend more and have a smoother setup but how many rounds do you shoot in the field when you go hunting? You may shoot a lot opening day of dove season but for waterfowl and upland not many in a day. Even a box or 2 is really hammering them and that you can do in an hour or so when you are set up. 

Also the big plus is that you will learn so much about shooting doing this and how your gun shoots that it is worth all the time and money just for the education, You will become a better shot. 

If you shoot thousands of rounds for trap and skeet after you learn how to load for your gun you will want a machine that is more automated but that is another topic and so is patterning and shooting your shotgun. This is just a basic shotshell reloading tutorial. Call it the first step to learning how to reload shotshells.

Mec 600 Jr.

 De-prime and re-size shell

At the same time you flip a lever and the primer drops into the priming station.

Move shell over to the priming station and prime shell. You can inspect your shell from station to station and make sure you did what was supposed to be done. Here you can take a look and make sure your shell is de-primed and sized and then that the primer is seated correctly.

When all is well drop the powder by sliding over the charge bar you have selected or in my case I'm using a multi-charge bar which I can use for many different powders and shot. Setting this up for your recipe is another topic which I will cover at a later time.

Powder in shell primed! Make sure you are wearing safety glasses!

Weigh the charge to see what you dropped. On these lighter loads I will do the first and maybe the 10th or 20th load to make sure nothing has changed.

Insert the wad and seat it with a pull of the handle. Not much force is needed here. You develop a feel for this quickly. If you make a mistake at this point you can go back and correct it easily. Make sure you reload without interruptions and when you don't have pressing engagements, responsibilities etc, etc. In other words your mind has to be there!

Wad seated

Slide the charge bar to the other side and drop the shot.

Weigh the shot to make sure you are accurate. Accurate is different for everybody. Sometimes very close is good enough. It may be a matter of 1 or 2 balls depending on the shot size and material.

Adjust the charge bar if that is what you are using else you may have other adjustments to make.

Move the shell over to the crimp starting station now that your load is correct.Start the crimp at this station. You should have room left to crimp your shell. If you don't check your recipe again for shell, wad, powder and shot. Now is when you can easily fix things. Later is harder but you can always take apart your shell and re-do it. The worst I've had happen is the shell bulged so I cut it apart, de-primed it and threw away the bulged shell. That is another topic for discussion later.

Move the shell over to the crimping station and crimp. I have used these shells in my auto loader with no problems cycling. The shells come out well formed if you do things correctly and follow your recipe.

Easy loader makes loading shells into a shell box a snap.